Ask the Coach: Building Power

Sometimes, you just don’t know what to do with your training.  You get stuck, or you see weaknesses you don’t know how to target.  Fortunately, we have a handful of talented, experienced coaches who are more than happy to help you reach your potential.  Today we’ve asked Pro Team Coach and all-around great guy Ian Chavis for some tips on building power for bouldering.
Ian at RiverRock | Peak Experiences

This guy knows what he’s doing.

Calvin Climber asks: “I’ve been climbing for about six months, I climb 5.10 fairly consistently.  I’d love to be able to boulder harder – I get tired quickly.  What kind of 30-minute workout would you recommend to get my power up?”

Ian says: If you’re struggling with bouldering but otherwise feel strong, this is a power-endurance workout to help you get more comfortable on steep sections. Type of terrain is often the make-or-break part of a climb, and the stronger you feel on steep terrain, the stronger you’ll feel all the time.

Pick two problems you know you can do – no projecting today.  Let’s say you’re a solid V2 climber, so you’ll be using V0s and V1s today. They should all be on pretty steep terrain.  Climb the V1 (the harder climb), then immediately drop down (no downclimbing) and climb the easier one.  If you fall, get right back on and finish the problem; if you fall twice on that problem, move on (and maybe pick an easier problem for your next set.)

Once you’ve climbed them both, do 30% of your max pullups. (So if you can do 5 pullups unbroken, do 2 now).  If you can’t do more than two pullups, do some slow negatives instead.

That’s one set.  Each set should  be completed in less than sixty seconds.  Rest 2-3 minutes, then repeat.  Ideally, you’ll do this for 30 minutes, or 7-10 sets.It’s that easy.  Do you have a training question? Let us know and we’ll ask the coach!

About Peak Experiences

Love rock climbing? Me too. Peak is a giant box of climbing and fun, located in Midlothian Virginia, and has been around since 1998. Stronger Than Yesterday is our online resource for all things climbing, in Richmond and out in the wider world.
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1 Response to Ask the Coach: Building Power

  1. Pingback: Ask the coach: Passing Plateaus? | Stronger Than Yesterday

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